However, we do need a bit of empathy and to understand what is going on for our dogs. Do you remember being a teenager? Certainly, a time of change and confusion.  So why wouldn’t our dogs (or an animal) be similar. 

The mammalian brain is physically changing during this period between puberty and adulthood.  What this means is that they are more likely to take risks, have less inhibition, their confidence is increasing, their desire to be ‘social’ increases and prey drive kicks in.  Sound fun!! 

I remember being a teenager well.  Finding my place within the world, wanting to be grown up but not knowing how to be.  Hormones were of course impacting me and my friends as well, so no one really knew how to manage their behaviour sometimes.  My parents were also trying to find the balance between giving me more freedom versus keeping me safe. 

I think having an adolescent dog it very similar.  We need to understand how many changes are going on physically and mentally.  We must find the balance between giving them outlets for what they want versus keeping them safe.

Having suitable dogs that they can interact with without learning to be a hooligan.  Using long lines to make sure they don’t learn how much fun running off and chasing a rabbit or bouncing on all the other dogs in park can be!  Giving them some quiet time to allow them to process the world.  Managing our expectations about what they can do, where they can go and help them cope if they are struggling.

Remembering that management isn’t cruel, it’s about not setting your dog up to fail.  What gets rewarded gets repeated!  Can you imagine the internal reward (feel good factor) your dog gets when it chases a rabbit across the field.  They cannot hear you calling them, all they know is that this is the best thing they have done all day!  So why wouldn’t they want to do it again tomorrow?  For you, you are terrified that your dog is not listening to you and scared they aren’t safe.  It’s the same if you allow your puppy to play with all the dogs they meet on a walk – this isn’t going to help them cope with their frustration of not being allowed to interact when the other dog when they are older.  Management is essential during this time in their life. 

However, please don’t take this to mean you hide away and don’t spend this time still working with your dog.  This period of their life is very important to develop a well-rounded adult dog. 

A few thoughts for you to help: How often do you play with your dog?  Spontaneous, silly, just running around play?  Do you give your dog appropriate outlets for both physical and mental desires?  Hiring a dog field is a great way to give them some safe off lead time, do some training games, sniffing time, and be relaxed because you know no one else is around.  Get to know your dog – what do they like doing?  I love asking people – if your dog had choice of what they get up to, what would they do?  This will guide you as to the fun activities you can learn together. 

I personally really enjoy this time in a dog’s life.  I love getting to know who they are going to become.  Yes, it is challenging, yes it can be hard work, but please remember to enjoy it too!  We don’t have long with our dogs, so make it all count.  

Jo x

I'm sure you are all aware of the news about the likelihood that the Government will ban XL Bully dogs. I have to say I don't agree with banning any breed as this doesn't address the underlying issues, however I do agree that something needs to be done to stop the numbers of dog attacks. 

A ban will just move breeding 'underground' and actually could generate more money for breeders of these dogs. The big challenge is an XL Bully isn't a breed so there is no standard, so who can decide what is an XL Bully? These dogs are crosses and most likely created due to the ban on the Pit Bull. I believe all this will do is make breeders create another type of dog that is outside the government restrictions.

I know lots of wonderful Bully type dogs; however, some people are attracted to the breed due to the status of having a very large powerful dog and these people will go for looks or colour, and not be considering the health and temperament of these dogs. The breeders will not be health testing, raising them with care and understanding of how to raise a well-adjusted dog, and the new owners, wanting a status dog, will unlikely be taking them to certified reward-based trainers to give them appropriate life skills.   For all of these reasons, it’s time to make changes.

It's time to focus on who is allowed to breed dogs. It's time to focus on education on how to raise dogs to be well adjusted and able to live in a human world.  It's time to regulate the Dog Training industry so that people cannot just watch some 'quick fix' TikTok video and think they know how to fix a behaviour problem or spend money with an unqualified trainer.  It’s time to stop and think if getting any dog is the right choice for the dog and family and understand in this world where we can get almost anything instantly, whether it’s time to stop and think first before buying. 
 
Having said all the above, I want to reach out to any Bully dog owner and say there are lots of certified reward-based trainers across the country that are ready to help you.  Please don’t panic and give up your dog (I can already see so many dogs being abandoned or given to rescue).  I suggest you start with getting your dog happy to wear a muzzle.  I can recommend the below link for well fitted muzzles and information about living with a dog that needs to be muzzled. 

https://www.facebook.com/the.muzzle.movement
 
If you have a Bully and just want to talk to someone, please give me a call.
​ 
Jo x

Do you worry about using food in training?  Do you worry that you will always have to use it?  Will your dog become obsessed with food?  Can you use ‘human’ food, or should it always be ‘dog’ food?  Will using food make my dog fat?  Using food means you are bribing not training.  I don’t need to use food; my dog loves me and that should be enough.

I think there is still confusion about using food in dog training, still some old school myths running around, so I wanted to address this. 

Firstly, get comfortable with using food when you are training your dog (or any animal).  Food is a fantastic tool that you have easy access to, so why not use it?  Do you get paid to do your job?  How about if I told you that when you are learnt your job, and when you are really good at it, that’s when I will stop paying you – how do you feel now?  Are you still keen to work hard?  To listen and respond to what your boss asks you to do? This is what I say when people ask me when I can stop using food in training. 

Food is a primary reinforcer, and most dogs find it valuable.  I can already hear people saying “my dog isn’t interested in food when another dog is around” (or insert your own distraction) and yes I agree food doesn’t trump lots of distractions and I’m not saying it will, but used correctly it is a powerful tool.  Food can be used to create powerful positive associations for dogs as well as counter condition negative associations.  It’s easy to use, lots of different variety can be used (kibble vs sausage) and your dog needs to eat so let’s get used to not seeing these are ‘treats’ but actually as part of their daily food allowance. 

Your dog gets to choose what food is rewarding.  Stop thinking about human food versus dog food.  One of the activities I often get my clients to do is use a tray, pop 8 different types of food on that tray and then put on floor and watch to see which items the dog eats first.  Some examples of food are: cheese, sausage, chicken, fish cubes, soft cheese, strawberries, cucumber, blueberries, kibble etc.  If you haven’t ever done this, I really want to encourage you to try this – a wonderful way for your dog showing you what their personal level of each food reward is.  That can be useful information when you are training.  I am not a fan of getting your dog ‘working’ for all of their daily food, but you certainly need to find the balance of what food they have when you are training.  You are in full control of what they eat, therefore there is no need for your dog to gain weight when you use food in training. 
How do you deliver food is another way of creating value in using food.  Do you get deliver to their mouth?  Do you scatter food on the floor so they can sniff to find it?  Do you throw it away, so they chase it?  Do you chuck in the air, so they catch it?  So many different ways to use food and depending on your dog’s personality they will have a preferred way for receiving food.  Some dogs would love to chase it across the floor, whilst some would look at you with the ‘you’ve got to be kidding – I now have to run to earn my reward!!!’ Another fun game to try with your dog – how do they like to receive their food reward? 

I pay my dogs regularly and have no shame in doing so.  It’s interesting that people sometimes comment when they see me using food.  For example, when walking on the canal and a bike goes past, I’ll ask my dogs to sit and wait whilst the bike goes past, I will then give my dogs a food reward and some people will quip “they’ll do anything for food” in a way that is them almost suggesting my dogs need to have food to listen.  I just smile and don’t say anything because they don’t understand, but I do find it interesting that people seem to judge dog owners that are seen to use food.  I get full of joy when I see someone walking down the street delivering food rewards to their dog when you can clearly see them practicing their loose lead walking. 

So does that mean I always have to use food?  I will go back to my point of: Do you get paid to do your job?  So Yes, some form of reward should always be used but as my dog’s learning increases the payments do reduce.  I would expect my dog to do more, work harder or longer for the ‘payment’.  When I started Hoopers training, I would reward my dog for simply doing 1 Hoop.  Now, I expect them to run a whole course of 20 obstacles for a reward.  Starting to teach loose lead walking, I pay every step and overtime reduce this down to some food rewards and verbal praise.  I often say pay according to difficulty.   If I am at home, no distractions around, then a mix of kibble/biscuits I would use, but the moment I go outside on a walk or to a training class, the value of my payment/food reward goes up. 

Getting paid for doing a job is a big reinforcer, but it’s not the only reason we go to work.  We have relationships with co-workers, pride in your job and learning skills are all motivations to work.  Linking that back to dog training, when your dog is learning new skills, or you are still building your relationship, more frequent rewards are needed, as your relationship builds, and there is intrinsic value in learning and playing together, then that also forms part of their motivation. 

Overtime, your dog will often work without food because they truly enjoy the activity, the teamwork of playing with you and they have been reinforced previously so now it is valuable for them to do.  This is all about relationship and history of learning and reinforcements that will get you to the goal of you and your dog being a great team.  
​Jo x

I have just read a recent website article titled “How to Dominate a Dog and become the Alpha Leader”.   This was written this year and the ‘expert’ writing it gives advice about how to makes sure your dog knows you are Alpha. Some of the suggestions were:
Make eye contact – stare at your dog when are they acting out of line.   
Don’t let your dog walk in front of you because only the Alpha leads the pack.
Control all the resources – don’t let your dog have any food or toys without you giving it to them.  
Don’t allow them on the bed or sofa. 
Misbehaving is your dog trying to test the boundaries and needs to be corrected.
Get your dog to earn everything – nothing is for free. 
All these things make you a strong leader and is you asserting your dominance so your dog will learn to be a well-behaved canine. 

I honestly cannot believe this sort of article is still being written and still allowing people to be misinformed about how to train and live with dogs.  This information is so outdated.  It has now been disproved by scientists; however, these sorts of myths just won’t go away.  I feel so sad for dog owners who are trying their best to raise their dog to be a wonderful family member when these sorts of articles are still being spouted by so called experts! 

Why do we seem to cling onto outdated, factually incorrect information?  Is it deeper than this?  Is it that sometimes we feel out of control with our dogs and that being told to ‘be more Alpha’ connects with something more basic that makes sense to us?  If we fear something or don’t understand it, then control must be the only option?  Discipline is needed.  Right and wrong – a moral judgment is required.   

Dogs are not moral.  They have no concept of right and wrong.  They see the world as what’s successful/safe versus unsuccessful/unsafe.  So, when we say things like “they knew they shouldn’t be doing that” it’s not correct.  Yes, they give a brilliant ‘guilty’ face, which we take as them ‘knowing’ they did wrong.  The appeasement body language they are displaying is in response to your emotional state or past memories of what happens in these situations.   For example: your dog chews the sofa when you are out of the house.  You come home, you are angry and shout at the dog.  Dog learns, when you come home you are sometimes angry and upset, so they learn to show appeasement when you return home.  The sofa chewing isn’t in their radar of why you are reacting like that.  You need to look at why the dog was chewing the sofa: boredom, stress, anxiety, teething etc.  The underlying reason of ‘why’ needs to be addressed, not punish them for doing it. 

I honestly understand that sometimes our dogs can cause us stress, worry and anxiety.  Some behaviour problems can impact every aspect of our lives.  Not being able to walk on the beach in case you see another dog, not having visitors in your home for fear of them showing aggression, not being able to go out to social events because your dog cannot be left alone.  There are lots of behaviours that our dogs need our support to help them with, to live in our human world.  They don’t need us to dominate them, to be more Alpha, to stop any freedom of choice or prevent them from having a trusting relationship with us. 

 If you get a dog to dominate and rule like an Alpha, then can I please suggest you don’t get one.  

Jo x

Do you know the difference between a reward and a reinforcer?  We use the term reward-based training often, but if you only reward the behaviour and your dog isn’t actually getting reinforced then the training outcome you are working towards is unlikely to be achieved. 

The quick way to know if the reward is actually reinforcing the behaviour is to see if your dog is willing to repeat the behaviour.  If they don’t want to repeat it – it wasn’t reinforcing!  This is when we start to say that our dogs are dumb or stubborn.  This isn’t correct or helpful for us to think like this.  Our dogs are very intelligent but also honest.  They will repeat a behaviour that is worth doing again.  They are looking for rewards and reinforces in their daily life (just like us!) so why would they do something that doesn’t have any fun outcomes? 
 
How much would I have to pay you to do a job you didn’t want to?  A job I hate to do is cleaning the windows of my house.  So if I did it and only got a ‘thank you’ from my husband, I am less likely to want to do it again.  However, if after I finished all my friends turned up and had a party, then you know what, I might be more likely to happily clean my windows more often! So in this situation, in the first instead I did get rewarded by verbal praise.  However, this reward didn’t increase my desire to repeat the behaviour of cleaning my windows.  In the second example, I got a wonderful evening with friends, that reward reinforced my behaviour so I am now more likely to do it again.  By the way, I now pay a window cleaner as really don’t like that job and my friends don’t turn up to party after I do it 😊
 
Top tips to help with your training:
1 – Play more!  Find out what games your dog likes.  Is it tug, chase, bounce?  You can build an amazing relationship with your dog once you understand their play style.  Also take your games on your walks.  Most of us only use games at home with our dogs and don’t think about taking this fun interaction outside.
2 – Tone of voice – be aware how you speak to your dog has an impact.  If you are stern in your tone, then that ‘control’ you think you have will only last to a certain point.  Who wants to do things because they are worried about the outcome if they don’t do it?  At some point, the dog will choose the other more fun option such as chasing the squirrel or running with another dog.  Keep it happy and light. 
3 – Words – do you ‘nag’ at your dog?  Keep repeating the same cue and expecting them to respond?  Do you constantly ‘chat’ at your dog and just expect them to know what is chat and what words they should respond to?  Make sure you are clear with what verbal cues you expect your dog to understand and respond to. 
4 – Management – the old classic of using management so that you dog gets it right.  Don’t set your dog up to fail – I say this a lot.  If you know in certain situations your dog is likely to do the unwanted behaviour, then it’s your job to put in the management required to keep them safe and not allow them to rehearse the behaviour you don’t want them to do.   Using a long line, or using a stairgate at home, these aren’t failing, these are management steps. 
5 – Celebrate small wins – it’s so important in anything you are training your dog to do, to celebrate each small progression step they make.  Slow and steady is the best way for your dog to learn a new skill, so make sure each step is rewarded. 
6 – Natural outlets – is your dog allowed to be a dog?  Do you give them appropriate outlets where possible?  If you have a dog that loves to dig – have you got an area in your garden where they can dig or a sandpit filled with sand and toys to find?  Do you sometimes hire a dog field and let them freely run around without worry of what you might come across?  Especially useful if you have a dog that struggles around other dogs and people or a young dog that doesn’t have a reliable recall yet.  Do you allow your dog to choose the pace of your walk?  To allow them to stop and sniff as much as they want or even choose the direction they go?
 
My challenge to you is to really start thinking about what your dog finds reinforcing as this really will help you with your training goals.  
​Jo x

I went to Crufts for 2 days this year.  I have been going for many years and decided 1 day just wasn’t enough so the last few years I have gone for 2 days and stayed overnight.  Mum and I go and have an amazing time cheering on people we know in various dog sports and showing.  Showing I have to say isn’t really ‘my thing’ so spend most of our time in the big arena watching agility, flyball, obedience, heelwork to music and all the other brilliant displays.  I love understanding how much work and time and sometimes tears has been put in to achieve the level of skill that each dog and handler are displaying and to be able to do it whilst being watched by thousands is amazing. The relationships are wonderful to watch no matter what age.

Another reason I go is to shop!  I like to speak to various stands to learn about new products, diets, treatments and to meet up with people from my membership organisations of APDT & PACT.   We always go round Discover Dogs and find out information about breeds I don’t know much about.  Speaking to people that own these dogs is the best way to learn the truth about them and know if they would be suitable.  We also pick a breed that we would have – cannot be one you’ve had before – a fun game 😊

However, I am always torn as to whether I should support everything that this show stands for.  I really struggle to see certain breeds of dogs that clearly struggle to function as a normal dog.  Brachycephalic (short nosed dogs) that cannot breathe, German Shepherds which have such bad slopping backs that it impedes their movement, Labradors that are clearly overweight – this list goes on.  All these dogs are in the show ring and therefore are a good ‘breed standard’.  I see dogs that are showing lots of stress signals simply being in that environment.  I also witness some horrible handling of the dogs.  The worse was on Gundog day; 2 children, under school age, were pulling their Labrador around, on a slip lead, whilst the parents just stood and chatted to other competitors.  When the girls screamed, it was only because the other child wanted their turn to hold the lead, the parent gave the second child the dog lead and she then proceeded to drag the dog around and around in circles.  The dog had a tucked tail, was licking his lips, licked their faces and was showing every appeasing signal possible, and no one was listening or responding to him.   It was so desperately sad to watch and know that this dog was such a lovely dog to tolerate this.  As a country of dog lovers, it makes me so upset that we don’t learn to read and understand our dogs.  It should be our responsibility to learn how dogs communicate and to listen and respond when they do talk to us. 

After saying all that, I know I will more than likely attend next year.  It’s a very tiring day as you walk miles around all the halls, but I do love it.  I think you have more chance of making changes from the inside rather than just not engaging.  Most of the organisations are wanting the best for the dogs and are working towards improving their breeds and focusing on welfare overall.  So that I want to support.  

So, what are your thoughts?  Are you a yes or no to Crufts?  
​Jo x

Was it a certain breed you always wanted?  You grew up with a similar dog?  Did you see them on a rescue page and fell in love?  Did you meet one in the park, and you knew that was the right dog for you?  There are so many reasons why people pick a certain breed or type of dog. 
​
When I was 12 years old I met an Irish Red & White Setter when I went to dog training classes with my parents when they were raising their Border Collie Mac.  I knew from that day, one day I would get a Red & White Setter.  I thought what a beautiful dog, gracefully yet silly, intelligent and loved to work.  When I was 30 I knew I was able to consider getting a puppy.  I had enough time, money and knowledge to devote to raising a pup.  Most people don’t even know what a Irish Red & White Setter is; I used to get asked if he was a big spaniel or some sort of cross.  They are not a common breed, so I had to wait for the right breeder with a suitable pup for us.  We welcomed Morgan into our family and he was just as I hoped.  The long legged, handsome, regal I always used to think, silly puppy.   At 8 months of age, I still remember this so clearly, we were on a walk, and he did his first ‘set’.  He froze, stalked and then flushed a pheasant out from the grass.  I didn’t see the bird and up to that point he hadn’t shown any of these behaviours before.  His recall was great; however now everything has changed.  His natural genetics had kicked in and his desire to flush birds was now the most important thing in his world. 

The fact as an adolescent he discovered his natural breed traits shouldn’t have been a surprise.  This is the age where your dogs will be developing and learning, and this time is when your relationship can be tested as the pup you were raising has now changed.  This is why you need to know what your dog was originally bred to do.  That way you can focus your training on what is likely to show up.  Are they more likely to bark? chase? hunt? destroy? bite?

Anyway, back to Morgan.  We spent the next year with him on a long line (we hadn’t needed to use one up till then) and spent lots and lots of time working on his engagement with us and not allowing him to freely chase birds.  The internal rewards he would have felt when he flushed that bird; there is no food or toy reward I could use to show him staying with me was better!  So management is required.  Don’t let your dog rehearse a behaviour that you don’t want them to repeat.  We spent lots of time working on focus and engagement type games, building our relationship and yes we did also allow him to flush birds sometimes – but only when he was given a cue to do so.  I love giving dogs access to their natural outlets, but there needs to be boundaries to keep everyone safe.  There are some behaviours that you can give an alternative outlet rather than access to the thing they actually want. 

During these challenging training times, this is when having dog can make people turn towards punishment-based training methods.  I know lots of people that have come to me, that have been told by others that their chasing dog needs to have an e-collar on to teach them not to chase.  These e-collars give an electric shock to your dogs neck when they do the ‘wrong’ behaviour.  Please Please Please never feel like you need to use any training that causes pain, fear or intimidation.  As the more intelligent species, we have so many more options as to how you can train your dog to listen and respond to you.  I feel so sad when I hear people have used these types of equipment because they felt they shouldn’t be using them, but a trainer told them to, so surely it must be ok?  NO! Dog training and behaviour is an unregulated industry.  Anyone can set up a business and call themselves a Behaviourist or Trainer.  Please check the people that you use are accredited with a membership organisation that actually ensures they are using only up to date, science based, rewarding methods. 

Anyway, back to Morgan and his pheasant chasing.  Yes it took time, and yes we made some mistakes along the way (he got some free chasing that wasn’t planned) but yes we did get to have him off lead in all locations with a great recall around birds.

If you have a working breed, you must expect that some of their natural behaviours will show up.  Are you aware what your breed or crossbreed were originally bred to do?  If you are considering getting a dog, can I please encourage you to research the breed.  Don’t be tempted on looks alone.  Another trainer described a working line dog as the Ferrari of the dog world.  I love cars even though I drive a van!  I would love a really fast sports car, but I certainly wouldn’t want that to learn to drive in one.  Actually, if I just want to pop to the shops with kids in the car, that wouldn’t be suitable either.  Maybe a Ford Focus would be must more suitable as the all-round car?  I love this analogy of dog breeds.  What do you want from a dog?  Is it an all-round family pet?  Or is it a high drive sporting breed?  Do you just want to enjoy walks on the beach, or need to take it competing and giving it a special lifestyle?  If you get a dog from working line parents – what do you think you are going to get? 

Something to consider when researching your next dog or perhaps looking at the dog you have now.  If you are struggling with your training, have you consider breed type?  Genetics?  Can you give them more appropriate outlets?  

As always, if you want to have a chat about your dog, don’t hesitate to give me a call.   

Jo x

This is the usual request I have when people contact me for help with their dog.  Their focus is on stopping the dog doing a behaviour that they deem wrong.  There is always an urgency to get the problem fixed as soon as possible and a hopeful desire that it won’t take too much effort. 

If we are honest, we are all the same.  We want to solve any problem with as little effort as possible, and preferably achieve the result by tomorrow, well actually yesterday would be better!  Who wouldn’t want to lose 2 stone overnight without any effort or be able to run a marathon without any training, or learn everything you needed to pass your maths A level in just one lesson.  I get it; however, this mindset doesn’t help when working with your dog.  Some issues are going to take time and patience to achieve the goal. 

There has been a rise in social media videos showing all these ‘quick fixes’; how if you only buy this piece of equipment or use this easy method, all your problems will be solved overnight. I have previously written about ‘balanced trainers’ and those that think it’s ok to use punishment in training, so I am not going to focus on that today.  What I want to talk about is the human end of the lead. 

I understand that having a dog can sometimes be really hard work, but I think we sometimes miss all the fun you can have too, especially when working through any behaviour or training challenges you have. 

I have lots of puppy owners on my Pawsome Puppy Programme, that reach out and ask for help with toileting training or biting issues; I of course help with advise, but I also tell them to remember to enjoy having their pup as the time goes so quickly, you must remember to enjoy this stage. 

If you have a ‘teenager’ and every day seems to produce a new unwanted behaviour, such as chewing or ignoring their recall, then understand that some behaviours are age related and it is part of their journey into adulthood and therefore management might be the only thing you can do for now. 

If you have a reactive dog that struggles on their walks, then why don’t you hire a rented dog field and just go and have some fun together or don’t walk them and engage with some fun games at home instead. 
It’s ok to give yourself and break and stop focusing on everything on your ‘to-do’ list. 

Sometimes I think we need to ‘be more dog’ and treat each day with the outlook of ‘what is the most fun thing I can do right now?’  I love that attitude and wish I had it more often.  Building your relationship of trust and understanding with your dog will actually be the best way to spend your time together.   Yes, you need to spend time showing them and helping them to be a good ‘canine citizen’ as they do need to live in our human world, but today I want you to remember:

Sometimes you just need to go with it and play with your dog!  
Jo x

It's time to start thinking about Christmas! Now I don't mean what presents you need to buy; I mean thinking about how your dog is going to cope.

Think about all the changes that will go on over the festive period:
Trees and decorations go up, extra ‘nice’ food is brought, family members come to stay and maybe a totally different routine if you are having some time off work, kids home from school and maybe you’ll be going on different, longer, busier walks.

It is hopefully a lovely time to look forward to, but I want you to consider your dog during this period.  

If you have a puppy or younger dog, then you will definitely have to manage your house.  You shouldn’t leave your pup alone when the Christmas tree that has just gone up!  If you have a real tree, I really do think our dogs must think we have gone a little mad that the rules for this tree is different to the ones outside!! Definitely no weeing up this one 😊

Chocolate is toxic and if you usually hang up chocolate treats, then please don’t – it’s just not worth the risk.  The box of Celebrations or Quality Street must not be left in the lounge unattended, so make sure the children (or adults!) don’t leave the lid off. 

The most common Christmas food that are toxic to our dogs are:
Chocolate, onions & garlic, macadamia nuts, corn on the cob, avocado, artificial sweeteners (xylitol), alcohol, cooked bones, grapes & raisins. 

I love giving my dogs their own Christmas dinner, but please be careful with what is included. 

Another risk are flowers or plants.  Mistletoe is a common plant during this season, but this is toxic to our dogs.  Please be aware if you are using this in your home.   There are lots of other flowers and plants that you need to be careful of.  See this list by The Blue Cross
https://www.bluecross.org.uk/advice/dog/plants-poisonous-to-dogs

I want you to give your dog a quiet space.  They need to have a safe space that when they want to relax, they know where to go.  Now is the time to start using this.  This could be a crate, or pen or their own bedroom – whatever works in your house.   Show them that this place is wonderful and they get lovely chews toys, or their dinner now is fed there.  Make it a positive spot, not somewhere they get put to get them out the way.  Some dogs won’t be able to make the decision that they need some quiet time, so you may have to regulate them more than you usually do. 

Guests in the house or you going to somewhere new will all disturb your dog’s usual routine.  This doesn’t mean that it’s bad, but you need to be aware that if your dog isn’t getting enough rest and sleep then you are likely to see some behavioural fallout.  If you have a pup, then biting will almost certainly increase.  Toilet training may go wrong as you aren’t watching pup as you are busy doing other things.  Stealing opportunities have increased whether it’s new toys the kids have got or all the extra food – please manage your house so that your dog doesn’t make any mistakes.  

Have a supply of chew toys, activity feeders or cardboard boxes that if your dog does need some time away from all the busyness, then you have something ready to entertain them. 

The Boxing day walk was always a nightmare for me when I had a ‘reactive’ dog.  I used to dread these bank holidays when everyone was out at the wrong times and messing up all my quiet walks that I usually use.  If you know your dog will struggle with the extra stimulation of these busy walks, then please remember you don’t have to walk your dog!!! It’s still such a stigma that you are a bad pet parent if you don’t walk them every day.  Well, I’m here to give you full permission to not walk your dog.  There are so many ways you can give your dog lots of enrichment at home and don’t need to increase their stress levels. 

I am hoping to just get you thinking about the approaching festive period and think about what your dog might need to make sure you all have a very happy time together. 

If you have any questions about how to make sure your dog is supported, then please don’t hesitate to get in touch. 
​Jo x

I love having multiple dogs – the most I’ve had is 3 at once but my parent’s dogs are also a regular part of family so that gets us up to 5 in lots of situations.  I love the different dynamics, the different personalities and the different ages and all that brings.  However, adding a new member to your family should be considered carefully and I wanted to share my thoughts about doing this. 

Firstly, have you considered if your existing dog would actually like to have another dog?  For example, if they are older and you are wanting a pup – this is fair?  Pup won’t have any manners and will just want to play and rough and tumble all day, and your older dog really might not find that fun.  What happens if they don’t get along?  Have you thought through the fact you might need to have a divided house?  Could you cope with this?

When people ask for my opinion on whether a second (or third, fourth) is the right choice then my first response is you only get another dog if you personally want one.  You don’t get one just as a play mate for your existing dog.  It doesn’t make life easier!!!

Adding another dog means twice the work, twice the time, twice the money.  Whatever time you spent raising and training your first dog, your second dog also needs this same amount of 1 on 1 time plus your existing dog shouldn’t miss out so want time with you too.  Food, insurance and vet bills will double.  If you get a pup then they need to be walked separately, socialised and trained separately (so they don’t become too dependent on your older dog) and then your older dog still needs their longer walks and training/play time.  Yes, after some time you can do walks together (when pup is able to do longer walks) but it’s really important to still have 1 on 1 time throughout their whole lives.  I recommend a minimum of a 2 year ago gap if you are getting a youngster so that they have time to mature and time to learn their own training skills. 

If you rehome a dog, then you need to spend time doing gradual introductions and make sure both dogs are comfortable with each other.  Comfortable to share you, space, food, toys etc.  This process can take some time.  Training them both to walk nicely on lead when in the company of a second dog, especially if one doesn’t have any learning yet, will be a challenge.  Can you hold 2 dogs if they both pull perhaps if they see something exciting like a squirrel? 

I always like to try to make sure existing dog takes priority – their life shouldn’t be negatively impacted if I want to add another dog to my household.  However, the new one usually needs the most amount of your time initially, so be prepared to allow the time and space to give both dogs what they need. 

We had a foster dog recently that didn’t get on with Cuba (my male dog) so we had to separate the house (closed doors) to keep everyone happy and safe.  We did this for 9 weeks and honestly, I found this really stressful; I was worried about a mistake being made with an open door and the dogs having a fight.  I felt guilty not giving all the dogs as much time as I would have liked.  I know lots of people that do live with a spilt house, but it’s not something I would like to have long term.  Thankfully he has now found a new home and is now very happy with his new family.  

This isn’t a ‘please don’t do this’ type of blog.  Social learning, so your older dog showing the younger one the ropes, is definitely a thing.  It can make some things easier as you don’t have to show your new dog all the ‘house rules’.  However, I do find the new dog usually just learns all the things that from your other dog that you wish they didn’t!!! 

I love sharing my life with dogs and feel very blessed to work with all your dogs too and knowing that each and everyone is so unique and really can give us such joy and pleasure. 
Jo x

PS The photo is of Pauline who recently added a second Corgi to her household, and this is one of her first walks where she is confident walking both dogs together 😊 I love supporting people to achieve their goals of a happy relationship with their dog – no matter how many they have.